@kaetho wrote:
Doesn’t make much sense in my opinion, you can use a normal network socket


There is now a box with 4x RJ45 there from a former ISDN installation. The U port is connected to the IB. The 3 other sockets (1x S-Bus, 2x from) have no function and nothing is connected internally.


@kaetho wrote:
I think that if you check the cable from the UP to the socket or replace it with a new cable, you will probably get even better values.


I’ll have to follow up with the management. Apartment building from the mid-80s.

Can the UP be found at the house entry or in the apartment entry (T+T cover)? From the T+T socket to the socket with the U-port, where I plugged in the IB, it’s about 10m - probably U72 or I51 cable. How can I distinguish between the two cables and which is better? Can these 10m make so much difference compared to the several 100m up to the DSLAM?


@kaetho wrote:
The calibration phase actually begins with the highest possible profile and is then reduced/levelled down to the best profile (as quickly as possible with as few errors as possible).


Are you sure about that? Is there (still) a calibration phase when changing subscriptions/tariffs?

Thanks to you in the meantime - greetings, Jürgen

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  • XT likes that.

Hello Jürgen,

I know your existing box, I continued to work with it at first, but then threw it out because I “touched it roughly” during the last conversion and therefore scrapped it.

The transfer point (UP) is in my basement, where the Swisscom line comes directly into the house. From there we made the direct connection to the DSL socket. U72 should be ok, but we immediately put in a new unshielded network cable ([http://www.brack.ch/daetwyler-uninet-602-flex-132093](http://www.brack.ch/daetwyler-uninet -602-flex-132093)). It was important that there were no strands but rather solid copper wires because of the connection in the boxes. You only need 2 wires to supply the DSL socket, simply use a twisted pair of wires, they are easy to distinguish in color. For me it is also 9m long. I could now use the other three pairs of wires for internal analog telephony, but it’s not necessary at the moment.

Branches or additional screw connections/clamps in the line from the UP to the socket cause the most deterioration, they all have to be removed. In addition, an improvement can be achieved by simply “shooting” the copper wires into the terminal connection of the box (topic of oxidation).

In my case, re-installing the entire DSL supply line in the house ultimately didn’t bring about any significant improvement in the line values, but I had to get to work on the installation anyway because the DSL socket had to be in another room.

Things looked significantly different at the beginning of the year, as the pair of wires on the supply cable from the control center to the house was changed and possibly also the port in the control center. This resulted in an increase in the capacity of the line by around 30%.

About the measurement phase: no, I’m not sure 😉

Greetings, Thomas

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Here are the line values: (are the values ​​from the IB now correct or are incorrect values ​​still being displayed?)

Screenshot_2014-06-11-19-25-33.jpg

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Hello Jürgen,

I would recommend you get a 1×2×0.5 U72M cable. The cable is shielded, on the UP you connect the ground wire from the cable to the ground of the UP. I wouldn’t use an Ethernet cable because the remaining unused wires could act as an antenna. If you need a BBR socket and cable, I can bring them to your next meeting.

Greetings Ralph

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Thanks Thomas,

Thanks Ralph,

Thanks for the offer, but does a BBR can make sense if there is no feedback since there are no other cans in the apartment?

OK, I checked the installation of the UP in the apartment. It is a flat twin wire, approximately 2×0.5. Somehow there is a separate, thinner twin wire in parallel, approx. 2×0.25.

In the stairwell 2 floors through a connection box each, then in the apartment another connection box (additional bell position) and then into the only connection box U-Out. Only carried out in the loop boxes, not clamped again. The thinner twin wire is not connected anywhere. total length from the UP approx. 12-15m.

I’m trying to find the 1×2×0.5 U72 suggested by Ralph from a friend (Vitamin B 😉) and move it in with a neighbor (former electrician). Then I’ll keep looking…

Jurgen

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The other wires don’t bother you. Otherwise there could be problems on the supply line as there are tons of unused wires in it.

PS: The measured values ​​are a bit too low at 9.8dB.

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Hi Jürgen,

I would definitely replace the old cable (twin wire). If you have access to the cable Ralph suggested, I would use that too. Just don’t forget to ground the shielding 😉

@XT, that’s what I thought, but I’m not a trained electrician, and the network cable I used works perfectly (it was even approved by a Swisscom technician, measured and found to be “great”) 😉

Greetings, Thomas

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@ XT if there are problems, then you can also use another four. Ethernet cables have different attenuation values, reactances, capacitances and inductance (X,Z,L) than a telephone cable.

I’ve had to remove an Ethernet cable as a supply cable once, but it only caused problems.

A U72 is also cheaper in price.

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@POGO 1104

But these values ​​are still with the old pair of wires? I would almost bet that these values ​​will be better with a newly inserted and cleanly connected cable.

Greetings, Thomas

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Hello Jürgen,

BBR socket without feedback

Doesn’t matter, it’s cheaper than an RJ45 socket. SC sells it for 26.50 CHF, Groshaldel sells it even cheaper. The flat cable (similar to speaker wire is I52 cable) the second cable is perhaps a reserve cable for 2. Anschluss or apartment.

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Hi

U72M 1×4×0.6mm is not a problem, but U72M 1x2x0.5mm is difficult to find , or a G51. If you have a choice, if in doubt, prefer thicker wire like 0.8mm. Because, large diameter = small resistance.:smileyhappy:

What also causes problems is if you ground the aluminum foil on the UP and in the apartment above! In the apartment just roll it up or cut it off. The main thing is to keep the twist as close to the pin as possible.

If installed, please post the new technical information, cable plus the cable length. To see exactly how high the effect is.:smileywink:

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@ aki and you then clip the 0.8 onto a VS 83 distributor, have fun with it. If I catch you with that, I’ll give you one on the 12th. This will destroy any VS83 terminals (that’s crazy!!!!).

U72 1×2×0.5 is available from Kablan. G51 is ok, not the first choice, only in an emergency.

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@all,

Thanks for your reports! By the way, I’m an industrial electronics engineer (machine controls) and cable shielding, one-sided shielding, twisted data cables, etc. are my daily bread…..

I only know telephone installations etc. and their cable names from trial apprenticeships around 30 years ago…

I’ll definitely keep you posted here…

POGO 1104

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@user109 wrote:

@ XT if there are problems, then you can use another four.


But not because a free wire is annoying.

I’ve never had any problems using network cables as telephone cables.

But I also prefer u72, since the T+T terminals (specifically VS83) are designed for wires and not for stranded wire.

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@Pogo1104:

What exactly is installed in the house connection?

Pipe length approx.?

Are there other telephone cables or even wires in the pipe?

Don’t take a U72 like others recommended above. With VDSL always U72M.

External interference is just as bandwidth limiting as length and crosstalk DSL/DSL. Unless you want to save money, then it’s better to do it at home. You won’t gain any db here unless totally oxidized.

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Simply because it hasn’t been mentioned yet:
From an electrical point of view, an ISDN installation is a digital socket.

Go from U (if you are not yet on All-IP! via VDSL splitter to the router), to All-IP directly to the router. Then you’ve left out everything that could possibly cause problems in your apartment.

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@micro,

I’ve been on AllIP for about 5 days. From the U-port of the box I go directly (with the original cable that is much too long) to the Internet box. As I said, a J83 2×0.6 twin wire goes directly from the U-port internally to the HAK / UP - an estimated 15m long - without any interruptions or branches.

@all

Detailed photos of the UP, loop boxes and apartment boxes will follow soon.

@akai

What is the difference between U72 and U72M? Looks like both 4’s are stranded and both have foil shielding. Could it be that U72M also has braid shielding?

I can’t find U72M in 1x2x0.5/0.6, as suggested by user109 / Ralph, only in the version 1x4x0.5/0.6.

If I now take a 1×4×0.5/0.6, should I take 2 wires together or leave 2 wires empty?

POGO 1104

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The U72 has no umbrella.
M=umbrella
It is not possible to determine whether it is only with foil or also with braid.

You almost won’t find 1×2. It’s not necessary either. 1×4 are a dime a dozen.

Before you invest too much time, I recommend taking more precise measurements.

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